Reduce the B&W pic to 2 colour, then increase to 16m. This gets rid of the grey tinge.:bananawinQuote:
Originally Posted by try
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Reduce the B&W pic to 2 colour, then increase to 16m. This gets rid of the grey tinge.:bananawinQuote:
Originally Posted by try
thank you very much, there's really no rush, so don't feel pressured to get on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by cutponies
sorry, i meant without clothes, i'd have said!Quote:
Originally Posted by cutponies
I've stumped Skipperbob with a question about the war of 1812. This picture is a clue for him. If anyone else recognises it please don't tell him.
I should post a picture to make up. Here is another Julie Strain Manipulation:D
just a hello and great stuff
Thanks for the advice, but I'm afraid with my ignorance of software I don't understand it.Quote:
Originally Posted by cutponies
What is 2 colour? And 16m? What does the m stand for?
And thanks for assisting me. When it comes to anything to do with IT, I need it!
2 colour means Black & White. Nothing in between, no grey tones. Therefore when you fill in with colour after changing to 16m it fills right to the boundary.Quote:
Originally Posted by try
16m means 16 million colours- the standard jpg. In the attached, I removed the colour, leaving only the grey tones(2nd picture), This is probably where you started to colour, but you need to remove the grey first. I used the program to reduce it to two colours (B&W, turning the greys into either B or W depending on how dense they were) and made sure that all the curves were closed (3rd pic). Finally I filled it in. I go one step further on my pics and shade. Once you have this down pat I'll teach you to shade.
PS If you hand draw, then scan, set your scanner to 2 colours (some scanners call it monochrome), not grey scale, and you will get a Black & white with nothing in between.
Try:
One of my insane artist friends draws mecha professionally (his focus is on stuff from Gundam, but he can do most robotic stuff -- he went back to art school, byr I have no idea what they could possibly teach him). His technique forworking on graphics has been to draw by hand, scan, clean up with computer software, print, draw over what he printed out, scan again into computer, touch up any marks in the wrong places, print, draw over the print, etc., etc. He gets the Nobel Crazy Lunatic Pruzem but he delivers outstanding work.
For what CutPonies is suggesting, I think it will improve the colour work greatly. I did a picture of Tux, the Linux penguin, for a recycling event, and had some problems with the scanner until I scanned it in and told the scanner to make it monochrome. I would suggest converting thepics as you work with them and saving at several different stages, using a numeric scheme or something, so you can take one steop back a few days later if you think you have found your work going to ruin instead of to greater glory in colour.
Do you usually start with drawing by hand or with software? Either way, a process something like this shoud do you well:
Draw "ballwrecker"
scan in ballwrecker in monochrome, save as a non-lossy format (BMP, GIF, PNG, etc.) -- name ballwrecker01
Clean up pic with software, save improved pic as ballwrecker02
Colour bllwrecker and sabe as ballwrecker03
Convert to a lossy compression scheme and save as ballwrecker04
If you do a lot of artwork (yay!), then you best get a big hard drive if you do not have one yet, and a bodacious supply of CDs. A lot of my stuff is still on floppy - ouch!
Consider going the insane artist route and do it like my friend does -- he's nutty as it gets, but his work kicks much ass. If you work for a long time on one pic, YOU will never see any improvement, because you are working step by step -- other people will see the improvement because they did not watch at each step. I spent about 16-20 hours on one drawing, trying to rise above my aristic grade of "bleah!" and, after much work, it looked like a LOT of bleah! instead of my usual minimal bleah! Other people said it looked great, so I suspect that I can never see whether anything I do looks good; all I ever see is the array of imperfections.
Draw the picture oversize, say at a height of 1024, then shrink it via smart resize or resample to 768. Note the subtle difference between the two ladies below. The first one was done at 768, the second at 1200 and shrunk to 768. Notice the smoother appearance, especially the black outline
Also a eunuch can't be drawn just as a man with no scrotum. He has to have more feminine curvature, a smaller penis, and softer facial expression, with fuller lips
Why cant i see the thumbs? Do you need a certain no. of posts?
Hi Cutponies and Trouble, you've given me much to think about. I will experiment, though I'm not sure if Roxio does all that you both recommend.
But there could be a problem with scanning in B&W as I draw with a handwriting pen, and I found B&W scans were unsatisfactory. But I didn't experiment with B&W, so I'll look at this first.
Thanks very much for your assistance!
Then wait 24 hrs. If that doesn't work contact SharonQuote:
Originally Posted by ABC21
cut, you are always a genius
Roxio is a good program for photo-manipulation, not so good for drawing and colouring. I use Paint Shop Pro , but it costs $200.00. You can find an earlier version here, free, and it's more than adequate(I used it for years)!. When I say that I use it, I do most of the cutting and pasting in Microsoft paint (It's faster), the shading and everything else in PSP !Quote:
Originally Posted by try
www.pagetutor.com/dl/psp312-32.html